While some beauty formulators rely on a single “hero” ingredient, for K-beauty formulators, the key to optimum product formulation is layering multiple actives across to build cumulative benefits. One such active that achieves this is betaine. It helps skin cells regulate under environmental stress while supporting barrier function by working together with glycerin, a foundational moisturizing agent.

Betaine functions at the cellular level by balancing water content inside the cell to maintain hydration and volume, while protecting cells and essential proteins from damage caused by environmental stressors such as UV radiation and heat. A four-week, in-use clinical study evaluated daily application of a cream containing IFF’s Genencare OSMS BA (betaine) demonstrated a significant reduction in transepidermal water loss, a key indicator of improved skin barrier function.

Shifting a ‘One-Dimensional’ Narrative

Despite its proven efficacy in skincare, betaine has appeared in a mere 0.5% of US skincare launches since 2020, per International Flavors & Fragrances, Inc. (IFF). To educate US formulators on the significance of this important osmolyte, past L’Oréal chemists and founders of the Chemist Confessions Victoria Fu and Gloria Lu say they wish to close this purported gap in the US skincare market.

Founded nearly 10 years ago as an Instagram handle to demystify skincare ingredients and debunk marketing myths, Chemist Confessions has morphed into a chemist-led skincare education platform working to translate complex skincare science into accessible, evidence-based guidance. Chemists Confessions also offers science-driven, modular skincare products designed to fit personalized routines, according to Fu and Lu.

They recently partnered with IFF to leverage the supplier’s robust scientific expertise in skin biology and ingredient science, with particular attention on osmolytes. The small organic molecules help skin cells regulate water balance under environmental stressors such as dehydration, surfactant exposure, or other external aggressors. The women say the collaboration aims to shift the narrative away from one-dimensional moisturizers toward a more holistic, systems-based approach.

“In simple terms, osmolytes work a bit like the osmosis experiments many people may remember from high school chemistry—where water naturally moves to balance itself across a membrane,” said Fu. “In skin, osmolytes such as betaine help cells manage this water movement so they don’t lose hydration when exposed to stress like dry air, cleansing, or temperature changes. Instead of just pulling water to the surface, osmolytes help skin cells hold onto water and stay balanced, even under challenging conditions.”

Filling the Education Gap

Fu agrees with IFF regarding the education gap around ingredients like betaine, despite its proven role in skin hydration and barrier support, in addition to its widespread use in many K-beauty products.

“By combining IFF’s scientific data with Chemist Confessions’ ability to communicate complex science accessibly, the collaboration aims to raise awareness and understanding across the industry,” Lu said.

While betaine can be plant-based and synthetic, naturally sourced betaine — most commonly obtained from sugar beets — is a naturally occurring osmolyte. At the cellular level, betaine supports osmoprotection by helping keratinocytes maintain hydration and stabilize cellular proteins, which helps preserve normal cell function under stress.

“Instrumental and clinical studies show that combining betaine with glycerin can deliver better moisturization compared to glycerin alone, while also improving sensorial properties—most notably by reducing the tackiness typically associated with high glycerin levels,” said Lu.

She and Fu blame low awareness and long-standing misconceptions about betaine – specifically, confusion surrounding moisturizing betaine and surfactant betaines used in cleansers – for its lack of inclusion in US skincare launches.

“As a result, osmolytes are often overshadowed by more familiar humectants such as glycerin, even though they support both short- and long-term hydration and can contribute to longer-term benefits like improved skin barrier function,” added Fu.

As part of their collaboration with IFF, the chemists incorporated IFF’s natural betaine into the second generation of Chemist Confession’s Aquafix Hydrating Water Gel, demonstrating its value in a commercially successful formula. Its crystalline, highly water-soluble format integrates seamlessly into its water-based serum.

“The high purification level of Genencare OSMS BA natural betaine meant we could include it without affecting the product’s color or odor. As a bonus, it helped reduce the overall stickiness of the formula,” Fu noted.

The campaign is designed to spread influence across the value chain.

“As consumers get more ingredient-savvy, it’s time for brands to move beyond buzzwords and start talking about advanced hydration strategies,” they concluded.